Potato Latkes
Would you believe that I was commissioned to write a Hanukkah song for a middle school girls' choir? Well it's true. And I decided to write it about latkes! More specifically, a grandmother/granddaughter latke-making ritual (inspired by the ritual my friend Emily had with her mom, Karen). The song includes the grandmother's recipe (i.e. Karen's recipe), so in an attempt at chanson verité, I made the latkes according to the lyrics in the song. (Delicious!)
And while I was at it, I thought I should try I&T's recipe, so I could taste them side by side.
Unfortunately, I&T's recipe is not very distinguished. Right off the bat, they suffer from an overdose of matzo meal. Waaaaaay too much matzo meal to potato. And the seasoning? Way off, way under. These taste like bland, institutional latkes, I'm afraid.
Here's what I learned making them side by side:
Karen's recipe uses Yukon Gold potatoes, and they perform very well. I'm wondering if I&T use all that matzo meal and corn/potato starch to soak up the liquid that the potatoes and onions give off. In Karen's recipe, you drain, i.e. squeeze out, the liquid from the potatoes/onions, so you only have to use a handful of matzo meal involved and one egg to bind it. The latkes are more like hash browns, a little shaggy, and beautifully crispy. There's also a lot more salt and pepper! In the vegan recipe, the russet potatoes plus the heavy dose of matzo meal make for a gummy, tasteless interior. Ah well.
Can't win 'em all...
SFO: 3
Follow me, Jeff Blumenkrantz, as I spend a year
cooking my way through Isa Chandra Moskowitz and
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Sunday, September 8, 2013
Thursday, August 29, 2013
Day 253 - Sweet Squash in Mole Sauce
Sweet Squash in Mole Sauce
This marks the end of Mole Week! Yet another great use of this yummy sauce. It's nice to see summer and winter squash side by side - you don't find that a lot.
If I had to pick my favorite mole dish this week, it would definitely be between the seitan stew or this dish. Obviously this one is lighter, maybe more of a side dish, whereas the seitan version seems more like a main. I think the squash might edge out the seitan, just by a hair...
SFO: 10
This marks the end of Mole Week! Yet another great use of this yummy sauce. It's nice to see summer and winter squash side by side - you don't find that a lot.
If I had to pick my favorite mole dish this week, it would definitely be between the seitan stew or this dish. Obviously this one is lighter, maybe more of a side dish, whereas the seitan version seems more like a main. I think the squash might edge out the seitan, just by a hair...
SFO: 10
Wednesday, August 28, 2013
Day 252 - Mole Skillet Pie with Greens
Mole Skillet Pie with Greens
It's Mole Week! I'm knocking out all the Chile-Chocolate Mole recipes in a row!
This is a fun and easy stick-to-your-ribs meal. I never make stuff like this! And I can't believe Helen, who's usually such a health-conscious eater, picked this from a list of much good-ier things I offered her. I think there may be something irresistible about the name and the concept, i.e. cornbread cooked in a skillet over mole smothered greens and beans.
I went with pinto beans, because they seemed the most... um... mole-y. And I used my 8 inch cast iron skillet. Now, I should mention, that 8 inch skillet looks like it's not going to be able to accommodate this whole concoction, but the truth is, it's the perfect size, so don't be scared.
Yet again, we have an undersalting issue here - you should definitely salt the veggies to taste before you put the cornbread on top. The cornbread itself is a little light on flavor, so you definitely want to have the extra sauce on the side for serving - it needs it!
The ratio of bread to veggies here is a little slanted to the bread side, so this may be better positioned as a side dish, i.e. more like a flavored bread than an entree pie. It's yummy and it comes in a fun package, but the star here, again, is really the sauce.
SFO: 10
As long as you aren't expecting any meat, you should be very satisfied.
It's Mole Week! I'm knocking out all the Chile-Chocolate Mole recipes in a row!
This is a fun and easy stick-to-your-ribs meal. I never make stuff like this! And I can't believe Helen, who's usually such a health-conscious eater, picked this from a list of much good-ier things I offered her. I think there may be something irresistible about the name and the concept, i.e. cornbread cooked in a skillet over mole smothered greens and beans.
I went with pinto beans, because they seemed the most... um... mole-y. And I used my 8 inch cast iron skillet. Now, I should mention, that 8 inch skillet looks like it's not going to be able to accommodate this whole concoction, but the truth is, it's the perfect size, so don't be scared.
Yet again, we have an undersalting issue here - you should definitely salt the veggies to taste before you put the cornbread on top. The cornbread itself is a little light on flavor, so you definitely want to have the extra sauce on the side for serving - it needs it!
The ratio of bread to veggies here is a little slanted to the bread side, so this may be better positioned as a side dish, i.e. more like a flavored bread than an entree pie. It's yummy and it comes in a fun package, but the star here, again, is really the sauce.
SFO: 10
As long as you aren't expecting any meat, you should be very satisfied.
Tuesday, August 27, 2013
Day 251 - Guacamole, Chili-Chocolate Mole, Seitan in Mole Sauce, andStrawberry-Plum Crisp
Guacamole
This may be the easiest, clearest, most customizable guac recipe I've ever made. I like how I&T start with the most basic, mandatory ingredients and list the other items as add ins. Of course, Ryan is here, so there will be no cilantro. Instead, I went with jalapeño, diced tomato, cumin, and garlic, i.e. everything else.
It's interestingly light in color... maybe because it's so fresh?
SFO: 10
Chili-Chocolate Mole
Mole is one of those things I'm not sure I understand. People speak of it with a kind of reverence, but I suspect that even if I were in the presence of a spectacular mole, I might not have the ability to know why. I remember hearing on some food program that a mole sauce should taste like its own flavor, i.e. not like any one of its ingredients, which is definitely not the case here. This mole really tastes like peanut butter to me. But I'm not complaining - I love peanut butter!
What an interesting ingredient list: crushed tortilla chips, almonds, sesame seeds, anise seeds, chile powders, cinnamon, marjoram, allspice, cumin, tomatoes, chocolate, of course garlic and onions, and the aforementioned peanut butter. I couldn't wait to see what this would taste like...
And it tasted great! A lot of those strong flavors did disappear, most notably the anise seeds, chocolate, and surprisingly the tomatoes, but the peanut butter definitely held court. And again, I found this to be undersalted. But when all is said and done, I'm very happy to eat this!
SFO: 10
Seitan in Mole Sauce
I'm even happier to eat this over some homemade seitan. This seitan/mole comba makes for a nice, chunky stew! This would be a perfect, wintry comfort-food dinner! I served it over a plain white rice, which tasted great! Again, the peanut butter ruled, but hey, I'm the one always ordering things in peanut sauce at Thai restaurants so I'm in!
SFO: 9
This all hinges on your acceptance of seitan as a protein. So I took a point off for potential seitan-a-phobia.
Strawberry-Plum Crisp
This is almost a great, quick, easy dessert recipe to throw together for a homemade summer dinner!
As I&T speculate, yes, plums and strawberries make great buddies here. The end product features a nice gluey red shlar filling, and I mean that in the best way possible.
As far as I'm concerned, a crisp's top can't be crispy enough, and this one wasn't quite fulfilling on its promise. I think it could've used more topping, and it might've helped to bake it a little longer.
Also, not sure why, but this crisp had an overall off taste. Was my oil not quite good? Or was it the cloves in the filling? Something was just... off.
SFO: 8
Points off for a subpar version of something that should've been nailing it.
This may be the easiest, clearest, most customizable guac recipe I've ever made. I like how I&T start with the most basic, mandatory ingredients and list the other items as add ins. Of course, Ryan is here, so there will be no cilantro. Instead, I went with jalapeño, diced tomato, cumin, and garlic, i.e. everything else.
It's interestingly light in color... maybe because it's so fresh?
SFO: 10
Chili-Chocolate Mole
Mole is one of those things I'm not sure I understand. People speak of it with a kind of reverence, but I suspect that even if I were in the presence of a spectacular mole, I might not have the ability to know why. I remember hearing on some food program that a mole sauce should taste like its own flavor, i.e. not like any one of its ingredients, which is definitely not the case here. This mole really tastes like peanut butter to me. But I'm not complaining - I love peanut butter!
What an interesting ingredient list: crushed tortilla chips, almonds, sesame seeds, anise seeds, chile powders, cinnamon, marjoram, allspice, cumin, tomatoes, chocolate, of course garlic and onions, and the aforementioned peanut butter. I couldn't wait to see what this would taste like...
And it tasted great! A lot of those strong flavors did disappear, most notably the anise seeds, chocolate, and surprisingly the tomatoes, but the peanut butter definitely held court. And again, I found this to be undersalted. But when all is said and done, I'm very happy to eat this!
SFO: 10
Seitan in Mole Sauce
I'm even happier to eat this over some homemade seitan. This seitan/mole comba makes for a nice, chunky stew! This would be a perfect, wintry comfort-food dinner! I served it over a plain white rice, which tasted great! Again, the peanut butter ruled, but hey, I'm the one always ordering things in peanut sauce at Thai restaurants so I'm in!
SFO: 9
This all hinges on your acceptance of seitan as a protein. So I took a point off for potential seitan-a-phobia.
Strawberry-Plum Crisp
This is almost a great, quick, easy dessert recipe to throw together for a homemade summer dinner!
As I&T speculate, yes, plums and strawberries make great buddies here. The end product features a nice gluey red shlar filling, and I mean that in the best way possible.
As far as I'm concerned, a crisp's top can't be crispy enough, and this one wasn't quite fulfilling on its promise. I think it could've used more topping, and it might've helped to bake it a little longer.
Also, not sure why, but this crisp had an overall off taste. Was my oil not quite good? Or was it the cloves in the filling? Something was just... off.
SFO: 8
Points off for a subpar version of something that should've been nailing it.
Friday, August 23, 2013
Day 247 - Roasted Yellow Pepper and Corn Bisque
Roasted Yellow Pepper and Corn Bisque
Here's another winner! There are interesting and varied ingredients in this soup, which combine in a beautiful balance of flavors: corn, onion, summer squash, chiles, coconut milk, maple syrup, lime and nutmeg, and yes, even peppers. Amazingly, the roasted yellow peppers in this recipe don't make me want to send the leftovers home with Marcy, who came to eat the soup! I actually kept and ate them!
It's a testament to the sweet, spicy, savory-ness of this dish that I was able to taste past the peppers. Alas, I did have to add salt, but what else is new?
SFO: 10
Here's another winner! There are interesting and varied ingredients in this soup, which combine in a beautiful balance of flavors: corn, onion, summer squash, chiles, coconut milk, maple syrup, lime and nutmeg, and yes, even peppers. Amazingly, the roasted yellow peppers in this recipe don't make me want to send the leftovers home with Marcy, who came to eat the soup! I actually kept and ate them!
It's a testament to the sweet, spicy, savory-ness of this dish that I was able to taste past the peppers. Alas, I did have to add salt, but what else is new?
SFO: 10
Friday, August 16, 2013
Day 240 - Blueberry Corn Pancakes
Blueberry Corn Pancakes
It's summer, I have blueberries, Carolyn's coming over, so if that doesn't spell Blueberry Corn Pancakes, I don't know what does.
These are good. Real good. Like make-them-for-the-vegan-guy-or-gal-who-just- slept-over good. But only if you want him or her to become obsessed with you. As it turns out, Carolyn is already obsessed with me, so this only made her more obsessed. But we're not going to sleep together. We stopped doing that years ago.
Just kidding. We're still doing it.
I mean just kidding. We never did that.
Anyway, back to the food! These are better than your averagebear pancake. Little tweaks, like the addition of cornmeal and lemon zest, give these that fancy lift up to the better-than-ordinary, dare I say extraordinary?
Mind you, the batter is shockingly thin. I didn't think they going to end up pancake-y, but lo and behold, they magically morphed in the pan.
What else is there to say? It's all good, it's so good you will eat too many of these and have to go jogging to feel OK about yourself.
But it's worth it.
SFO: 10
Um, yah!
It's summer, I have blueberries, Carolyn's coming over, so if that doesn't spell Blueberry Corn Pancakes, I don't know what does.
These are good. Real good. Like make-them-for-the-vegan-guy-or-gal-who-just- slept-over good. But only if you want him or her to become obsessed with you. As it turns out, Carolyn is already obsessed with me, so this only made her more obsessed. But we're not going to sleep together. We stopped doing that years ago.
Just kidding. We're still doing it.
I mean just kidding. We never did that.
Anyway, back to the food! These are better than your average
Mind you, the batter is shockingly thin. I didn't think they going to end up pancake-y, but lo and behold, they magically morphed in the pan.
What else is there to say? It's all good, it's so good you will eat too many of these and have to go jogging to feel OK about yourself.
But it's worth it.
SFO: 10
Um, yah!
Monday, August 12, 2013
Day 236 - Roasted Portobellos (Take 2), Portobello Salad with Spicy Mustard Dressing, and Quinoa Salad with Black Beans and Mango
Remember when I tried to make the Roasted Portobellos at my friend Emily's house, but her oven was calibrated weird and they didn't turn out right? Well, tonight's the night I'm redoing them. Let's see if it was really the oven, after all...
Roasted Portobellos (Take 2)
Turns out Emily's oven wasn't the culprit. Or maybe it just contributed to an already awkward situation. These mushrooms are just not great. I just don't think you can cook a portobello effectively in 40 minutes at 400°, especially if it's sitting in a bath of marinade. I even drained away the marinade at 40 minutes and cooked them longer, but I was still left with soggy, rubbery mushrooms. I don't know what the solution is, but I think it may involve more oil, higher temperatures, and maybe the Maillard reaction. But this is definitely not the way to a great portobello mushroom.
SFO: 3
No one's going to want this, but least of all someone who's gunning for some meat.
Portobello Salad with Spicy Mustard Dressing
Though the main attraction on this salad is subpar, thankfully, the supporting players are all nailing it. The dressing is vibrant and tasty, and the avocado, onions, and chick peas provide nice texture and flavor contrasts. One word of advice, for those who don't love raw onions. I now always marinate (pickle?) my raw onions for 15 or so minutes in the vinegar for the dressing. This takes away all the nasty bite but still leaves great flavor and even a little crunch. If you can figure out how to make a great portobello, this salad would be a knockout. Like my friend Alysha (pictured here).
SFO: 8
This would be a 10 with a great mushroom.
Quinoa Salad with Black Beans and Mango
Flawless. Perfectly balanced. Easy. This is one of those brilliantly designed yet simple recipes. And here's the kicker: I'm saying all this about a recipe that has red bell pepper in it! That's how good it is!
What a great blend of ingredients: mango, pepper, scallions, cilantro, quinoa, and beans. Creamy, sweet, savory, fresh, piquant, chewy, every bite is a dream.
Of course, there's only 2 grains of salt in the recipe, so you're going to want to add more. Or a ton more, if you're me.
But can we discuss that the peppers didn't bug me? I mean, I could taste them, and it's not like I liked them or anything, but they didn't ruin the dish for me! Amazing!
This would be perfect for a pot luck or a picnic. The vegans will WORSHIP you!
Roasted Portobellos (Take 2)
Turns out Emily's oven wasn't the culprit. Or maybe it just contributed to an already awkward situation. These mushrooms are just not great. I just don't think you can cook a portobello effectively in 40 minutes at 400°, especially if it's sitting in a bath of marinade. I even drained away the marinade at 40 minutes and cooked them longer, but I was still left with soggy, rubbery mushrooms. I don't know what the solution is, but I think it may involve more oil, higher temperatures, and maybe the Maillard reaction. But this is definitely not the way to a great portobello mushroom.
SFO: 3
No one's going to want this, but least of all someone who's gunning for some meat.
Portobello Salad with Spicy Mustard Dressing
SFO: 8
This would be a 10 with a great mushroom.
Quinoa Salad with Black Beans and Mango
Flawless. Perfectly balanced. Easy. This is one of those brilliantly designed yet simple recipes. And here's the kicker: I'm saying all this about a recipe that has red bell pepper in it! That's how good it is!
What a great blend of ingredients: mango, pepper, scallions, cilantro, quinoa, and beans. Creamy, sweet, savory, fresh, piquant, chewy, every bite is a dream.
Of course, there's only 2 grains of salt in the recipe, so you're going to want to add more. Or a ton more, if you're me.
But can we discuss that the peppers didn't bug me? I mean, I could taste them, and it's not like I liked them or anything, but they didn't ruin the dish for me! Amazing!
This would be perfect for a pot luck or a picnic. The vegans will WORSHIP you!
SFO: 9
Yup, I think even bratty omnivores would go for this.
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