Would you believe that I was commissioned to write a Hanukkah song for a middle school girls' choir? Well it's true. And I decided to write it about latkes! More specifically, a grandmother/granddaughter latke-making ritual (inspired by the ritual my friend Emily had with her mom, Karen). The song includes the grandmother's recipe (i.e. Karen's recipe), so in an attempt at chanson verité, I made the latkes according to the lyrics in the song. (Delicious!)
And while I was at it, I thought I should try I&T's recipe, so I could taste them side by side.
Unfortunately, I&T's recipe is not very distinguished. Right off the bat, they suffer from an overdose of matzo meal. Waaaaaay too much matzo meal to potato. And the seasoning? Way off, way under. These taste like bland, institutional latkes, I'm afraid.Here's what I learned making them side by side:
Karen's recipe uses Yukon Gold potatoes, and they perform very well. I'm wondering if I&T use all that matzo meal and corn/potato starch to soak up the liquid that the potatoes and onions give off. In Karen's recipe, you drain, i.e. squeeze out, the liquid from the potatoes/onions, so you only have to use a handful of matzo meal involved and one egg to bind it. The latkes are more like hash browns, a little shaggy, and beautifully crispy. There's also a lot more salt and pepper! In the vegan recipe, the russet potatoes plus the heavy dose of matzo meal make for a gummy, tasteless interior. Ah well.Can't win 'em all...
SFO: 3
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