I love the idea of this soup, lots of summer goodies working together to create a vegan chowder. But as promising as the ingredient list may be, I didn't find the whole to be greater than the sum of its parts.
Fresh corn, carrots, celery, fennel, potatoes, garlic, onion... all lovingly sauteed and then simmered in a fresh corn stock (see below), with a last minute kick of chopped fresh tomatoes and basil - sounds like a summer dream, right? Well, there are some dreamy qualities, but first let's discuss the prep.
It's intense! Lots of chopping, and let's not forget the homemade stock! This is a labor-intensive soup, and I wish I could say it was worth all the fuss, but in the end, it was simply nice. Sweet. Literally. All that corn will sweeten a pot!
The flavors of summer are certainly present, the most predominant being the corn and the tomatoes. The fresh tomato add-in is an interesting touch. I think we're used to our soup tomatoes being either cream of tomato, i.e. cooked to death, or gazpacho, i.e. raw with a lot of kicky flavor. Here, the tomatoes are a fresh, sweet accent, i.e. a very distant cousin to either of those other soups.
But I think the sweetness is the issue here. It's a very sweet soup. And it's thin. I pureed the small amount I&T directed me to puree, but it didn't really bring too much creaminess to the pot, so I pureed some more. And even with the extra blending, the creaminess is barely noticeable. This really seems more like a brothy soup than a creamy one.
The flavor is pleasant, but I'm left feeling there's no there there. My favorite vegan recipes are the ones that feel complete, as if nothing is missing. Here, I find myself longing for clams, or some other complex flavor to interrupt the sweetness of this summer bowl and take center stage. Alas, the corn is running the show, but I wish it had stayed in the ensemble. (One acting gig, and all of a sudden, all my metaphors are theatre-related....)SFO: 7
There's nothing wrong with this soup, it's just not the greatness I was hoping for.
Fresh Corn Stock
I love the concept of this recipe. Use the scraps from the main ingredients of your soup to create a flavorful base stock. This underlines and supports the flavors in your soup.
There's just a couple of issues.
The first is timing. You sort of have to work backwards. This stock needs to cook for 60-90m. So effectively, there are no scraps yet. You have to start prepping your ingredients for your soup long before you're going to use them. For example, I cut the corn off the cobs long before it was time to add them to the pan because I needed the cobs for this stock. Same with the fennel fronds. Alright, that's actually no big deal.
The other issue is that because of the relatively long simmer, my stock reduced a lot, by half! I started out with 2 quarts of water, and I ended up with one quart of stock. And the chowder recipe calls for two quarts. So I ended up using half stock and half water.
Granted, the stock was very sweet, so watering it down was maybe not a bad thing. It certainly did lend the soup a solid corn flavor.
SFO: 10
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